Monday, December 21, 2009

In Good Taste


Here's a more tasteful posting...my offering at Saturday's holiday celebration.

Thursday, December 17, 2009

The Game



And how you play the game
Is how the game plays you, way true –Chali2na

Wednesday, December 16, 2009

Tuesday, December 15, 2009

Morning Go Out

Dillon Delights





Yeah….I got the memo.

Seems that while I was biking yesterday Dillon was firing. So much for my wave prognosticating methods. So many passions; so little time!

“Dillon Delights”, read Doug’s email. Such alliteration! What would today’s email be? I didn’t want to find out.

So rather than living vicariously again through Doug’s emails, I decided to go for it. The impending storm and prospect of a windblown, bumpy ocean would not stop me.

I was happily surprised to see some clean conditions and surf buds Doug & Jim in the line up & rding tasty waves. Dillon dished me up a first wave that in itself made the drive worthwhile! It was a long, workable right that did delight. I carved it like Thanksgiving dinner.

I did have my fill of close outs, but had a nice serving of exciting rides too. I left feeling rather satiated. Call it almost “delectable Dillon”.

Monday, December 14, 2009

It Hurts so Good



I finally pumped up the nearly flat tires on my long ignored and cobweb covered road bike.

During the summer and glorious fall, my mt. bike & surfboards were the vehicles of choice. Now the season has changed; let the cross training begin. Time to “shut up & ride”.

Thursday, December 3, 2009

707SURF


“We old men need waves like these to keep us going”, commented Doug. He looked neither old, nor in need of any kind of push as he raced across big wave faces.

Jim showed lots of courage not only in taking chances and making his share of often overhead waves. He was also brazen enough to surf with a bloody hand right near the mouth of the Tomales Bay....and thankfully not near another kind of mouth, known to these waters.

I saw 707SURF Alec snag a long, long righteous right and paddle back quite stoked. A fiery flamenco guitarist, Alec talked shop with jazz guitarist Jim between sets.

My wave count was not prolific today, as these big rollers were hard to catch. The handful of rides I got were worth it though….big and fast. I am over any doubt about how the new board can carve too.

The setting: Dillon Beach in Sonoma County (or so it seems). The crew: all Sonoma County boys, usually interlopers at an undisclosed Marin location. Once in awhile you gotta represent at the home turf….well make that home surf. Thus Alec’s surf gangsta, area code plate “707SURF”.

This was one frigid, foggy morning and three of us emerged frozen and eager for creature comfort, coffee and camaraderie at the Dillon Beach CafĂ©. There we looked out on the waves searching for our lost surf bud. It seems that Jim doesn’t like to say goodbye, I’m told. When we finally regrouped with this stoic surfer, he was actually blue!

Monday, November 30, 2009

Freezer Burn


What was I thinking?! Well, actually I wasn’t.......thinking that is.

I decided to give the ole knee joint the usual ice pack treatment yesterday; hoping I'd be more agile for surfing today (though as it turned out, in today’s sketchy surf conditions, I was way less than agile anyway)

See, I routinely put my gel ice pack into its sleeve and then surround that onto the knee with an ace bandage. That way the ice pack adheres nicely to the knee and I am free to do whatever. Well, somehow I got sidetracked doing whatever and somehow placed the ice (sans sleeve) directly on my skin.

Long story short, today I seem to have frostbite.

It’s actually not a pretty sight, looking much like a serious sunburn. They probably won’t have to amputate, but I do know I will now be careful to avoid freezer burn.......of myself.

YOU EEDIOT
-Ren Hoek

Tuesday, November 24, 2009

Dino Miranda



Since my new board is the Surftech Dino Miranda Model, here's the man himself. I can at least aspire to style my surfing this way (OK, OK...smaller waves for me).

Monday, November 23, 2009

Pusher Man


Marty seemed not to recognize me as I walked back from checking the surf this morning. It was the dark shades and black beanie no doubt.

“I thought you wanted to sell me some drugs,” he remarked. (Did I really look so sinister?)

“Sure, man…I got ya covered….I got Advil, Tylenol, Alleve….maybe ya just wanna chill with some ice packs.” These after all, are the drugs of choice nowadays for this middle aged, wannabe athlete!

Tuesday, November 17, 2009

Cryptic

Something about that movie though, well I just can't get it out of my head
But I can't remember why I was in it or what part I was supposed to play.
All I remember about it was Gregory Peck and the way people moved
And a lot of them seemed to be lookin' my way. –Bob Dylan

Saturday, November 14, 2009

Dizz Kid


He may not have always been an academic whiz kid; but now he’s the Dizz Kid! Congrats for all your hard work and perseverance in these rough times. All the best in your new career at Disney!!! Love, Pops

Size Matters
















Four out of five women agree that size matters. Alas Dirk Diggler I am not. But no worries now that I ride a 9’4” Surftech. Those extra 3 inches are providing enhanced enjoyment and greater pleasure by far! Fun session yesterday!

Friday, November 13, 2009

Viewer Feedback Time


Seems like the latest YouTube slide show has had a few hits out there in cyberspace. The switchboards are all lit up. So the good folks here at DaBlog (aka. those voices in my head again) just wanted to share the fun in the form of some actual viewer comments about Where To? and related images.

So here ya go:

> From Alec in Petaluma……”D U D E !”

> From Garrett in LA……”Awesome new show! Real creepy mood.”

> From Cathy in Cazadero……”Whoa dude, I wonder what your dreams are like, cause you are adding to my nightmares. Very good wrong turn, very dark,wooooo.”

> From Kevin in Santa Rosa……”One of my favorites. Nice job Matty!” (Note: Though he’s a therapist; Kevin already knows I’m a sick man.)

> From Chris in Santa Rosa……”I liked it. Whose car?”

> From Marty in Marin……”Well, Matt, you've done it again. More spooks than one can safely shake a stick at. Halloween continues beyond the hallowed 31st and who knows, the turkey could become the next carved pumpkin event. Stuffing laid out like waves, drumsticks beating rhythm to a ghoulish symphony and the faint, last cries of the dying bird. Oy vey, such a deal.”

> From H in Santa Rosa……”I tried to watch this on youtube but it was all jerky. You create such cool things.”

> From Paul in Italy……”I could only watch once. I’m almost AFRAID to open it again. Has there been a lack of sun in Sonoma County? It’ll be O.K. Matt.”

> From a friend of Lorenzo (off to Mozambique)…… “taken acid or finally reached an artistic Satori”

Thursday, November 5, 2009

Latest Slide Show.......Spooky Vibe



Well, the recent seasonal & Halloween imagery has morphed into a slide show. What began in a whimsical mood has taken a wrong turn. What is this new destination? Find out…. if you dare.

And check out my entire catelogue at: Matt's YouTubes

Wednesday, November 4, 2009

Dead Man's Party


I'm all dressed up with nowhere to go
Walkin' with a dead man over my shoulder

Waiting for an invitation to arrive
Goin' to a party where no one's still alive –Oingo Boingo

My photography is even scaring me!

Surf Junkies In Junky Surf




I joined Doug on the sea wall to view the havoc the south wind was wreaking upon surf conditions. Not a pretty sight. Since surfers seem to be ever optimistic, we reasoned that conditions couldn’t get much worse…..WRONG. “I’ll go if you go,” we said to one another. Besides I was “feelin’ the camo” of my new camouflage board bag. This would be as close to the battlefield as I ever hope to get.

I realized that I had violated my own rule of not driving this far when the wind was like this. Yet why was I here? It’s just that I longed to try my new longboard. I had even dreamt about riding it last night. Several big projects are looming on the work front and this was my window. Further, buying a new board is inherently a leap of faith, no matter how analytical the decision may have been…….I needed to validate.

Another new board owner with a parallel situation to mine showed up to join the party. Pete had just gotten a new Mystic and seemed down for whatever. Crowds were a non issue as the three intrepid surfers ventured out to the Patch. By then the wind velocity had increased and it was a grim sort of mayhem out there. Waves doubled into one another, making the lineup elusive. Yet somehow, we all scored some rides and we all avoided driving home feeling skunked by not even getting in the water. Know the feeling?

These conditions were not a proving ground for the new board; but I experienced glimmers of what will be. I am excited with a sense that the board will take my surfing to another level. I await revelation; so stay tuned.

Tuesday, November 3, 2009

EYE CANDY



Well, turns out the new board is so sexy I made love to it with my camera. (sorry Rhio) Only trouble is it's too beautiful to ride.




Enough of that I'm gonna go wax it up for the next session.

Sunday, November 1, 2009

The Morning After








Evidently 3000 revelers went to McDonald Ave. last night. Rhio and I waited til this morning's aftermath. Then off to my wacky interior world via Photoshop.

Tuesday, October 27, 2009

Samhain


Where there is no imagination there is no horror. ~Arthur Conan Doyle, Sr.


They're baaaaack! -Poltergeist

Wednesday, October 21, 2009

SHOUT OUT to Cuzzin Bernie!


Kudos to my Cousin Bernie! (age 58 like me) He taught me to surf when we were kids on Long Beach Island, N.J. He had a Duke Kahanamoku Special that took two of us to carry over the dunes. After a long, long hiatus, he is making a come back to the sport of his younger days. His waters will be the rugged Oregon Coast!
Bodhi: If you want the ultimate, you've got to be willing to pay the ultimate price. It's not tragic to die doing what you love.
Johnny Utah: Vaya con Dios, Brah.

Just kidding. It’s gonna be a blast! Props go out to you big time. Dude, who talked you into this anyway? Ooops.

That's Bernie with his new Takayama 'In The Pink' and as a younger man "back in the day" with his classic Hansen 50/50.

Homecoming



It’s Alive! The Patch that is. After so many Channel sessions, I was thrilled to see The Patch reawakened by today’s south swell. Waves were coming through at a solid 3-5’ with nice shape.

The inside “race track” was a crowd scene of unfamiliar faces though. I opted for the outside with a more familiar crew. Got to share in good conversation and comraderie between sets with Mary, Loren, Claude and Russ. Happily there were some long, workable rights. This was one exhilarating Fall morning!

After the session, as Mary and I reflected; I remarked on how much I was needing a Patch fix. She said it all....... “It’s like coming home!”

Friday, October 16, 2009

Impact Zone





Paddling out had it's challenges today.

















Paddling in was ridiculous.

Sunday, October 11, 2009

I'm Over It

You know, it's funny how things never turn out the way you had 'em planned.
The only thing we knew for sure about Henry Porter is that his name wasn't Henry Porter. –Bob Dylan

Thursday, October 8, 2009

PaintCanJam



A celebration of graffiti as artistic expression from a Norcal beach to Melrose Ave....while Stereo MCs Set It Off!

And check out all my shows at: Matt's YouTubes

Wednesday, October 7, 2009

RX: Surf


Tweaked my knee last week somehow. Then I got a dang cold. A good time to get busy on the work front (happily a series of jobs came my way)…but with it all, I missed two nice days of south swell. So today I hoped for a come back.

I showed up a little later than my usual, allowing for the sun to provide its warmth. Loren was suiting up as I pulled in and said , “Don’t even bother looking. The lefts are peeling off”. I needed to walk a bit to test out my knee though, which wasn’t bearing weight so well on my stroll last evening. The view of gleaming lefts in the morning sun was dazzling. Time to ‘get my surf on’! *See 9/25 post.

The wetsuit was much like a neoprene support brace for my knee and the cold and salty water provided a nasal wash for the old sinuses. The 52 degree ocean snapped me right out of my Nyquil stupor too. And most of all, the clean waist to shoulder high peelers rejuvenated my spirit. Ah nature’s panacea!

Sunday, October 4, 2009

Get A Room You Two!



I thought love was only true in fairy tales
Meant for someone else but not for me.
Love was out to get me
That's the way it seemed.
Disappointment haunted all my dreams.

Then I saw her face, now I'm a believer
Not a trace of doubt in my mind.
I'm in love, I'm a believer!
I couldn't leave her if I tried. -The Monkees

Thursday, October 1, 2009

Almost Famous





Props to Lorenzo’s Journal, which just featured yours truly in the 9/23 entry. (yeah that's me) I am so stoked! This blog is renown for defining the very pulse beat of Bolinas surfing. Further, Lorenzo’s Journal chronicles a retiree’s life style, greatly enhanced by his love of surfing. And with each entry, you’ll find a table with the day’s conditions as well as a photo du jour. These photojournalistic images not only catch the action. They create mood and composition too. So whether you want to monitor the waves, meet the cast of local surf characters or find a good surf role model; it’s all there.

Lorenzo is one of the most avid surfers I know. He’s always in the right spot, catching wave after wave. You can easily spot his relaxed stance and fluid style. His enjoyment of the sport is reflected in his blog, as is his contentment with being retired. The journal has inspired me to persevere both in the water and on the blogspot. Being mentioned like this is something I’ve aspired to and has me stoked. So check it out with this handy link...... Lorenzo’s Journal

Did I mention I'm stoked!?

Here's a little excerpt (actually my favorite part):

Matt caught the wave of the day. Paddling out I saw him stroking into a well-formed three-foot wall. I stopped to watch. Matt quickly positioned himself mid-swell with his back to the wave. He crouched down in the middle of his board and cruised through a long fast section. He then stood up and by shifting his weight he worked the board up and down the wave keeping him in the steepest part of the curl. He hummed by me as I paddled through the white water of the wave, I looked back and there was Matt crouched down shooting through an inside section.

Friday, September 25, 2009

Talk That Talk

Overheard in the parking lot while suiting up today:
"Dude, I gotta go get my surf on."

Note to self:
I can't wait to say that shit.

Thursday, September 24, 2009

SloMo





“I feel like I’m standing still”, I said as the single speed Surly sped by me while climbing Canyon Trail today.

“Sometimes you gotta do that on a single speed”, replied the very fit young rider, graciously understating his youth and athleticism.

“Dude, I need all the gears I can get!”, I called out to the already disappearing figure.

Wednesday, September 23, 2009

Amelie Recut


Amelie is perhaps the most charming and engaging romantic comedy ever. Remember the warmth of its cinematography and the hauntingly beautiful soundtrack. Well, forget that and prepare for THE FEAR. I've seen this movie a dozen times; but never before like this.

Still Buzzed


I was the only one in the water. Where was everyone on this silver Autum morning? Was there a party and they forgot to invite me? Was it something I said? Perhaps it was that smell rising from my wet suit booties? Was there something in the water besides the red tide? My mind traveled.

After an hour Loren ambled up the beach to view the waves. Soon he and Russ paddled out to join me in trading some crisp, clean lefts. The waves, though only waist high, were steep and fast. If you made the drop quickly, they held their shape. We all got some sweet ones.

I was quite lucky to receive a gift of nature…the wave of the day! Right place, right moment, awesome ride. Now and then, life is really good. I know I’ll be humbled and back in school all too soon; but for now, I’m still buzzed!

Tuesday, September 22, 2009

Bad Hair Day



I woke up with such a combover. When should I give up on "creative combing"?

Monday, September 14, 2009

Testosterone


Someone commented that there was too much testosterone in the water today. Most of it wasn’t mine though. And to a man of 58, too much testosterone is not usually the issue. There was a small crowd of perhaps 20 surfers sharing a couple peaks. Waves were a solid chest high, steep and fast.

Though I had several awesome rides, I also made my quota of wipe outs by dropping in too steeply. There I was after such a misadventure, about to give my leash a tug and retrieve my board. I was basically caught inside as two guys bore down on me, having simultaneously dropped into a solid 5 footer. Not much room for any of us to maneuver. So….now what?! All I could come up with was to dive straight down and hope to be sufficiently submerged to avoid injury. I love my board and all; but I love my ass more! When I popped back up I saw the back of one rider still carving the same wave. Fortuitously, my Tuff Lite board was not put to the stress test; nor was my bod.

After vying for a few more lefts, I decided to solo it for a right over into the channel. Sweet ride but now I was really in the impact zone for my paddle back out. Another ride and I decided I was good. See, I’m kinda saving the testosterone for a certain someone.

“Hmmm, maybe I should have taken that generic Viagra a friend bestowed on me”, I pondered. He did say it was for recreational use. I’ve been a little tentative about trying the stuff though, what with all the warnings about 4 hour erections (Loren pointed out that’s in fact a pretty good sales pitch). Well after today’s session, I’m stiff enough!

PS. The waves were coming hard and fast! What, I couldn't resist that.

Monday, September 7, 2009

Shut Up And Surf!




Dorian “Doc” Paskowitz, at the height of his medical career, decides to abandon the material life he has somehow come to disdain. He, his wife and family (ultimately 9 kids!) embark on a seemingly idyllic family odyssey, living off the grid in a 24 foot camper.

This well woven documentary combines many vintage photos and film clips with incisive interviews to explore the family’s dynamics and lifestyle, leaving the viewer with a lot to ponder. Is Doc a visionary and quintessential father or a relentless control freak and child abuser?

Are the kids finally prepared for life in today’s real world? And how do they relate now to their upbringing and their parents? Will one man’s quest for Utopia work for his entire family?

Here is a surf film for anyone, surfer or not. It is a documentary that may leave you pondering your own belief system.

Thursday, September 3, 2009

Gonna Fly Now

I need a training montage! Damn, I almost joined Heath Ledger last night. All that mixology of mouth meds for the root canal was not a good thing. Today I’ll begin my come back. Queue the Rocky theme.

Trying hard now
it's so hard now
trying hard now

Getting strong now
won't be long now
getting strong now

Gonna fly now
flying high now
gonna fly, fly, fly...

Wednesday, September 2, 2009

After Matt's Root Canal


I feel funny. Why is this happening?!

Tuesday, September 1, 2009

I'm A Dental Case



I’d rather have a root canal than "fill in the blank”. Well, now I’ll have my chance. At least I got to replenish my Vicadin stash. Not that I enjoy being out of it like that; but it does help to transcend the toothache. I'll have to pop one when I get the bill too. I am actually looking forward to the “procedure”, a euphemism for yanking the nerve.

Unfortunately this endodontist doesn’t administer nitrous, which always enables me to be a model patient. Instead I will take a valium to "get in the mood". And by the way, his office is located only several blocks from my house; so I can even walk there. Ironically I won’t be allowed to walk home, which would put the endo’s license at risk, he claims. He expects me to get a cab home. Sorry but I’ve already seen Taxi Driver and don’t want some crazed guy with a mowhawk showing up at my door cause he’s pissed about a miniscule fare! So stay tuned….I know I will.

Friday, August 28, 2009

Go Time



As I pulled in, Doug was already suiting up; so I knew there would be waves. Then 'Surf-707' Alec rolled along side me in his Tundra with personalized plates. Hey you gotta’ represent that Sonoma County area code…even though the three of us are all interlopers at this undisclosed Marin break.

The early morning sky was a thing of beauty and the lack of wind made for clean and glassy waves. Pacific Waverider was way off in it’s prediction of 1’-2’ and poor. Glad I checked Wetsand and Stormsurf too, as well as the coastal weather report and forecast. Plus I’d finished the week’s topo map for work. Basically it was “go time” (but more about that concept later).

Since the waves were quite nice, there was already a small crowd. Catching waves would require strategy and etiquette. The group was experienced but congenial….for the most part. Doug would later comment that some of the take offs were overhead and I surprised myself on several. Left to my own devices, I sometimes will forego a wave, as I don’t have fun dropping into large close outs. When you’re in a lineup though, and someone says it’s “go time”; you go. If not, credibility is lost as is your spot in the rotation. Happily today’s green light meant dropping into waves that held their shape nicely, making for some sweet, peeling lefts and rights. A confidence building session and a nice buzz.

Okay, okay...so I superimposed Pipeline into Mary's photo of Alec and I. One's inner experience is all relative.

Tuesday, August 18, 2009

Monday, August 17, 2009

Flower Power





I made these today on Autocad & then exported them into Photoshop for effect. Dude, Woodstock was like 40 years ago. FAR OUT!!

Meet The Death Panel




As we sat by our mt. bikes beneath the redwoods, we rested from the rigorous hill climb we’d just done. Joel, Charlotte & I were chatting about health care reform and the crazy notion of bureaucrats creating death panels to 86 the elderly and infirm.

Just then a young, very fit biker babe with full face helmet charged past us. “Do you need any help?”asked this Darth Vaderess. “Yes please. We are old! Save us from the death panel!” we clamored.

As more spandex clad bike beauties on colorful bikes whisked by, I did feel a bit stiff.....but perhaps not from old age.

Photo Credit: I ripped this off from Google Images....so, no worries, Rhio. I may already have enough to explain, huh? It's not like I was "hiking the Appalachain Trail".

Friday, August 14, 2009

Thursday, August 13, 2009

Some Bun Fun



Yesterday we went to Fort Mason and then Fisherman's Wharf. Today I ventured into Photoshop.

Bon Appetit

The City of Santa Rosa has been conducting smoke testing of the sanitary sewer system. Smoke is pumped into open manholes and ideally should come pouring out of bathroom roof vent pipes without entering the home. If smoke does enter; then you are basically breathing sewer gas!

Yesterday my friend Lance joined me for lunch. Being a refined fellow who always lauds my culinary offerings, I knew he would enjoy the special lunch I was planning. He arrived quite punctually, and when I answered the doorbell, there he stood; and behind him, a city utility worker clad in bright orange. Should I set another plate?

So my appetizing repast of Asian chicken and cabbage salad was orchestrated with great flare to appeal to Lance’s discerning pallet and gourmet taste. How aesthetically pleasing and dramatic the presentation! Meanwhile smoke came pouring from all the neighboring rooftops! Mmmm, what is that delicate aroma?

Thursday, August 6, 2009

Somebody's Got To Do It!






“Thanks Matt. The phone isn’t ringing, again. Go figure. Nothing on the schedule this week. I will keep you posted when something comes up.” This was the email from the boss.

“Hmmm, still time to make it to the Bolinas office for second shift”, I thought."Gotta make that board meeting."

Props to Garrett who was ready earlier than ever. We made it to Bo by 11am! Though my dawn patrol buddies had likely come and gone, we did encounter Loren returning from his surf session. He told us to get out there for some long, peeling lefts in the Channel. Seeing wall to wall surf campers inhabiting the Patch, we decided that the Channel it was. We punched in for second shift and when to work.

Indeed the rides were quite long. G commented that he got “the longest ride of his life”. Does that imply that the paddle back out was his longest paddle? It was all about paddling as we encountered much current in reaching the line up. Thinking we were there we would find ourselves caught inside. That first hour yielded some exciting rides, but also expended our energy.

Then we noticed a throng of brightly colored blue and red boards glinting in the sun as they emerged from the Patch. We took our cue and headed industriously over there for third shift. During the next two hours, we met our quota. Some clean sets came through and we did our job to ride them.

Claude paddled out and I shouted “Surf Camp only”. He assured me that he was enrolled. He did have on lots of sun screen and said they fed him a hearty lunch. I expressed concern that he might get a cramp if he got in the water too soon. In fact the real surf campers actually did relinquish the waves for quite a while.

When we could paddle no longer, we decided it was quittin’ time. Garrett has been feeling the frustration and sting of job hunting lately; so I told him that this was now his job. In fact he’s been showing enthusiasm in the work place. He said that he even hopes to get Employee of the Month! Atta boy. Good job!

Tuesday, August 4, 2009

Wakame Salad

The Patch was serving up more sweet waves yesterday along with a hearty side dish of seaweed salad. Dropping into these waves presented an added challenge of being able to slice through the slimy speed bumps of kelp. Sometimes tentacles of the stuff would even ensnare you while paddling. Add to the mix about a dozen surf campers, and it was kind of a chirashi bowl out there. Still, some long shapely waves kept Garrett and I coming back to the salad bar for yet another helping.

Thursday, July 30, 2009

Family Surf Sesh


A father and son surf session is by definition a special occasion; but yesterday afternoon was more the stuff that awesome memories are made of. We had a blast!

By the time we reached Bolinas, Garrett had gotten over the wake up call. It was, after all, 11:30 when he was so rudely awakened. I think a large Kit Kat bar washed down with Redbull must have helped. I hated to disturb his repose, but when I got Mary’s blog comment about good waves, I resolved that we had to hit it. And what better way to boost G’s morale from the rigors of job hunting?

We arrived at 2 for our afternoon sesh. Both the patch and the channel were looking enticing. G said he was up for the patch. Good call! After our first wave, the surf camp contingent all took the hint and went in. And magically the waves picked up! For 2 of the 3 hours we surfed, there was no one else there. The patch was our own private playground and we did frolic!

The sets just kept coming. The waist to chest high waves were sweetly shaped and were faster than usual. There were long faces that afforded us with room to carve and maneuver. The routine was ride , paddle back, turn and ride, with hardly time to recover one’s breath. Hey, I am not complaining here. It was a gas. Now and then we’d have a lull and exclaim how much fun this was.

Another highlight was cheering each other on whenever we got great rides, which on waves like these was often. Sharing the occasional family wave made it that much sweeter, as did seeing that smile on G’s face and realizing that I was smiling myself.

A few others showed up by the third hour and we were actually glad to share some waves, looking for an excuse to slacken the pace. Our limbs turned to rubber by the end and we could hardly extract ourselves from the surf. The walk back to the car was a challenge, but our sense of tiredness was a full and satiated feeling. GOOD TIMES!!

Tuesday, July 28, 2009

MaxWax


The surf yesterday was messy and actually so was my board. I finally really questioned why I’d allowed 6 months of wax to become layered atop my surfboard. My McTavish Original is a state of the art epoxy tuff lite board. Underneath all that wax, it looked more like a vintage relic of the 60s that had been lying dormant in someone’s garage for decades.

First Alec showed up with his own McTavish, all newly stripped and freshly waxed. Later I watched Claude remove his Santa Cruz from its bag to reveal what looked to be a showroom sheen. That’s when I resolved that my own board was screaming for a makeover!

When I got home I laid my board in the backyard under the hot afternoon sun. A tedious task was made simple, as all the wax quickly melted to a molten mess, which I readily removed. The wax ball was nearly as big as a volleyball!

I pondered why I had allowed so much wax to accumulate and coagulate. I mean I get harassed about how spiffy I keep my bikes…not just dialed in but hyper-dialed. So why all that wax and sand patina on my board?

When I surfed in Costa Rica, the equatorial sun quickly melted my board’s wax away; so I just kept a bar at the ready in my board shorts. Traction with a minimal layer of wax was never an issue. Perhaps I’d adopted a more survivalist strategy in the chill waters of Northern CA, thinking that I’d have a better chance of making it back to shore if I maxed my wax.

Well, whatever. The transformation revealed a board that, aside from a few dings, appears brand new. I’m born again, squeaky clean and 2 pounds lighter.

Friday, July 24, 2009

Take Your Pick

There he is again….. the recycling bandit probing through my can as I emerge from my door to get the morning paper. It’s trash day and the cans are out at the curb. Are they now public domain? It still creeps me out.

“Is it all right if I pick?” he asks. “I don’t love it, but do what you gotta’ do.” I reply.

He continues with his white gloves and some sort of extension pole to methodically extract his bounty. What is more enigmatic is his late model Toyata sedan, a car that looks like that of an urban professional.

I wonder if I should rethink what goes into the can. I do shred important documents; but maybe some of my correspondence needs to be trashed rather than recycled. Did he just snag the financial section? He’s probably going to review his portfolio.

Wednesday, July 22, 2009

Appointment With Disappointment

I'd like to shake your hand,
Disappointment.
Looks like you win again,
But this time might be the last. –Neil Young

One second you are inside this bubble, and the next second you are outside the bubble. It’s disorienting. It’s surreal. –Levi Leipheimer

Monday, July 20, 2009

Space Madness



Leave your preconceptions on the launch pad and blast into space for Moon. This is the new release from director Duncan Jones, who happens to be David Bowie’s son. So this is like Ground Control To Major Tom stuff right? Well it is a Space Oddity; but that’s really where any comparison to famous father slips quickly by.

Not only does the film work with great visuals of moonscapes; but there’s also a taut soundtrack by Clint Mansell, who did the intensely haunting music of Requiem For A Dream.

And this is a future projection that stands apart from the usual sci fi offerings. Done on a low budget, it may lack the fireworks of the genre. Intead it is gritty and realistic, yet quite convincing with its space scenes and technology.

In Moon there is largely only one actor on screen…actually two…but they’re both Sam Rockwell. His character, Sam Bell is winding down a 3 year stint with a mining operation on the moon, when his solitary existence is confronted with a visitor….who happens to be himself. Huh?! Is the visitor an alien, a robot, a clone, or has Sam gone insane?

And if all this doesn’t sound spacey enough; there’s Kevin….Spacey that is. Or at least his voice as a Halesque robot reminiscent of 2001 Space Odyssey. But is he sinister or as benevolent as his smiley face implies?

So catch a little space madness to commemorate Apollo 11, fourty years later. “When you’re 250,000 miles from home, the hardest thing to face is yourself.”