Wednesday, November 4, 2009

Surf Junkies In Junky Surf




I joined Doug on the sea wall to view the havoc the south wind was wreaking upon surf conditions. Not a pretty sight. Since surfers seem to be ever optimistic, we reasoned that conditions couldn’t get much worse…..WRONG. “I’ll go if you go,” we said to one another. Besides I was “feelin’ the camo” of my new camouflage board bag. This would be as close to the battlefield as I ever hope to get.

I realized that I had violated my own rule of not driving this far when the wind was like this. Yet why was I here? It’s just that I longed to try my new longboard. I had even dreamt about riding it last night. Several big projects are looming on the work front and this was my window. Further, buying a new board is inherently a leap of faith, no matter how analytical the decision may have been…….I needed to validate.

Another new board owner with a parallel situation to mine showed up to join the party. Pete had just gotten a new Mystic and seemed down for whatever. Crowds were a non issue as the three intrepid surfers ventured out to the Patch. By then the wind velocity had increased and it was a grim sort of mayhem out there. Waves doubled into one another, making the lineup elusive. Yet somehow, we all scored some rides and we all avoided driving home feeling skunked by not even getting in the water. Know the feeling?

These conditions were not a proving ground for the new board; but I experienced glimmers of what will be. I am excited with a sense that the board will take my surfing to another level. I await revelation; so stay tuned.

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