Wednesday, September 23, 2009

Still Buzzed


I was the only one in the water. Where was everyone on this silver Autum morning? Was there a party and they forgot to invite me? Was it something I said? Perhaps it was that smell rising from my wet suit booties? Was there something in the water besides the red tide? My mind traveled.

After an hour Loren ambled up the beach to view the waves. Soon he and Russ paddled out to join me in trading some crisp, clean lefts. The waves, though only waist high, were steep and fast. If you made the drop quickly, they held their shape. We all got some sweet ones.

I was quite lucky to receive a gift of nature…the wave of the day! Right place, right moment, awesome ride. Now and then, life is really good. I know I’ll be humbled and back in school all too soon; but for now, I’m still buzzed!

2 comments:

  1. Matt - I saw your "wave of the day" this morning and will have a description of it in Lorenzo's Surf Journal in a couple of days. Look for it.

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