Friday, October 1, 2010

Double Dipping







I’ve surfed the Patch so much lately; that I needed to hit the Channel ....if only to maintain some credibility. Plus that’s where everyone was...Marty, Mark, Doug, David, Loren, et al.

I first encountered Loren getting his pre-session blog shot and he commented that the inside left north of the groin pole was peeling nicely. (By the way Loren...it's dueling blogs today,even though I told Marty I wouldn't attempt to go head to head with you). Caught a quick fun one there on the inside before easing my way further out and into the line up.

As I studied the conditions, I watched as David (wtBb) caught two sweet, long rides. He was on it today. Then Doug made an agile pop up, dropping into a steep, fast & larger size wave. His stance was confident and formidable.

My wave was not as successful. After making the drop, I crouched and grabbed a rail hoping for glory as the wave walled in front of me. Next thing I knew I was hurled into the soup as the wave closed out on me. “How’s that workin for you?” posed the Dr. Phil voice in my head. Hmmmm.

A little later I dropped into another close out, only this time cut back to avoid the inhospitable section before me. Ugh! Now I heard another voice, that of the Patch Siren sweetly singing. I stayed on the wave and took it to shore to heed the calling.

The Patch dweller returneth!

It seemed I’d now paddled into a whole new realm. The rights were coming with regularity and both size and shape. The sun broke through the clouds creating a metallic sparkle on the beckoning wave faces. My confidence was regained and the shape was holding. A few hours of solid carving eased the earlier tweaking from my Channel close outs.

Sometimes I’m just a denizen of the Patch... What can I tell ya?

P.S. Props to Mark, who showed up later at the Patch on his long board, after short board shredding in the Channel. He caught one from beyond the outside rock.....well basically out to sea, and rode that wave all the way to the parking lot! And Robert was rockin the peak way outside. He was too far out there to really see; but I heard his resonant shouts of, "Here it comes!"

No comments:

Post a Comment