Weekend In Doheny

Friday: “You couldn’t have timed it any better”, declared Manny at Blue Coast Surf Shop in San Clemente. “There’s waves.”

My flight from Oakland was an early one & the edge from traveling melted away as I paddled my 8’6” NSP rental board into the break at Doheny. Word up, Manny. There were waves….shoulder high and holding their shape. Water temp of 60 degrees was 10 degrees warmer than my last Bolinas session. The ocean was a clear blue under SoCal sun.

I surfed for 2 hours dialing in the NSP & acclimating to the new spot. I wanted to be ready for my upcoming surf weekend with son Garrett, who would arrive that night after his work day at Disney Animation in Burbank.

Saturday: Dawn patrol was easy for us, as the Holiday Inn Express was only 2 minutes from the surf. We caught sun glazed, shoulder high wave faces as the day began, trading ride after ride well into the morning. We were truly astonished that 3 hours had flown by. What a nice way to reconnect with G by sharing our love of nature and high quality waves!

Time for a lunch break & it had to be Chronic Tacos with its funky atmosphere, surf vibe & exceptional Mexican food. Also a nice beer selection & 11 a.m. was not too early to quench our thirst….a nice prelude to an afternoon siesta.

Seems the south swell was still serving up tasty waves for our afternoon enjoyment. It had gotten even more consistent with the changing tide & we wanted to max out while the conditions lasted. G’s friend Justin showed up from LA to join in the marathon surf day. This nearly 59 year old pushed to show the young guns that “Old Guys Rule”.

Lots of amazing waves to carve & a mellow crowd. Saw some very talented and stylish surfing from the locals & was inspired to ride the nose by what I witnessed. The walk to the nose of an 8’6” is 10” less than my Surftech 9’4”, which made a difference, as did these shapely waves. Progression in my surf style.

A father will take pleasure in watching his son thrive. There was such a moment when G worked a long right, thrusting his 7’6” Walden Mini Magic up & down the wave face. Suddenly the wave jacked up & G crouched just in front of the fast breaking curl. He looked around hoping that I had seen this awesome ride. I raised my fist high to signal that I had seen & to offer props from Pops.

Another 3 hour session. We were surf animals!! Phew, what’s for dinner? Chronic Tacos? Hell yeah. We were in afterglow.

By now we were also toast. So it was early to bed…too tired to grasp Morpheus enlightening Neo of the Matrix, we switched off the remote.

Sunday: Today brought an onshore wind & mushy waves. Yet on we frolicked. After 2 hours we could paddle no more.

When G left that evening, I felt a little sad that our good time was so fleeting; but then such incredible memories will always be with us.

Now where to go for dinner? Chronic Tacos, bro!

Monday: My Departure schedule allowed me time to have a morning surf & I hadn’t yet sampled the world class waves of San Onofre. I determined to venture out despite gusty wind and adverse conditions. As it was, my triumphant feelings from Saturday’s sesh quickly gave way to feeling humbled once again. My rides were mostly comedic. Nature does have a way of putting things back into perspective.

Still I will always remember that epic Saturday with my son & our solidarity through surfing.