Almost Famous

Props to Lorenzo’s Journal, which just featured yours truly in the 9/23 entry. (yeah that's me) I am so stoked! This blog is renown for defining the very pulse beat of Bolinas surfing. Further, Lorenzo’s Journal chronicles a retiree’s life style, greatly enhanced by his love of surfing. And with each entry, you’ll find a table with the day’s conditions as well as a photo du jour. These photojournalistic images not only catch the action. They create mood and composition too. So whether you want to monitor the waves, meet the cast of local surf characters or find a good surf role model; it’s all there.

Lorenzo is one of the most avid surfers I know. He’s always in the right spot, catching wave after wave. You can easily spot his relaxed stance and fluid style. His enjoyment of the sport is reflected in his blog, as is his contentment with being retired. The journal has inspired me to persevere both in the water and on the blogspot. Being mentioned like this is something I’ve aspired to and has me stoked. So check it out with this handy link...... Lorenzo’s Journal

Did I mention I'm stoked!?

Here's a little excerpt (actually my favorite part):

Matt caught the wave of the day. Paddling out I saw him stroking into a well-formed three-foot wall. I stopped to watch. Matt quickly positioned himself mid-swell with his back to the wave. He crouched down in the middle of his board and cruised through a long fast section. He then stood up and by shifting his weight he worked the board up and down the wave keeping him in the steepest part of the curl. He hummed by me as I paddled through the white water of the wave, I looked back and there was Matt crouched down shooting through an inside section.