Samhain

Where there is no imagination there is no horror. ~Arthur Conan Doyle, Sr.


They're baaaaack! -Poltergeist

SHOUT OUT to Cuzzin Bernie!

Kudos to my Cousin Bernie! (age 58 like me) He taught me to surf when we were kids on Long Beach Island, N.J. He had a Duke Kahanamoku Special that took two of us to carry over the dunes. After a long, long hiatus, he is making a come back to the sport of his younger days. His waters will be the rugged Oregon Coast!
Bodhi: If you want the ultimate, you've got to be willing to pay the ultimate price. It's not tragic to die doing what you love.
Johnny Utah: Vaya con Dios, Brah.

Just kidding. It’s gonna be a blast! Props go out to you big time. Dude, who talked you into this anyway? Ooops.

That's Bernie with his new Takayama 'In The Pink' and as a younger man "back in the day" with his classic Hansen 50/50.

Homecoming

It’s Alive! The Patch that is. After so many Channel sessions, I was thrilled to see The Patch reawakened by today’s south swell. Waves were coming through at a solid 3-5’ with nice shape.

The inside “race track” was a crowd scene of unfamiliar faces though. I opted for the outside with a more familiar crew. Got to share in good conversation and comraderie between sets with Mary, Loren, Claude and Russ. Happily there were some long, workable rights. This was one exhilarating Fall morning!

After the session, as Mary and I reflected; I remarked on how much I was needing a Patch fix. She said it all....... “It’s like coming home!”

Impact Zone

Paddling out had it's challenges today.

















Paddling in was ridiculous.

I'm Over It

You know, it's funny how things never turn out the way you had 'em planned.
The only thing we knew for sure about Henry Porter is that his name wasn't Henry Porter. –Bob Dylan

PaintCanJam

A celebration of graffiti as artistic expression from a Norcal beach to Melrose Ave....while Stereo MCs Set It Off!

And check out all my shows at: Matt's YouTubes

RX: Surf

Tweaked my knee last week somehow. Then I got a dang cold. A good time to get busy on the work front (happily a series of jobs came my way)…but with it all, I missed two nice days of south swell. So today I hoped for a come back.

I showed up a little later than my usual, allowing for the sun to provide its warmth. Loren was suiting up as I pulled in and said , “Don’t even bother looking. The lefts are peeling off”. I needed to walk a bit to test out my knee though, which wasn’t bearing weight so well on my stroll last evening. The view of gleaming lefts in the morning sun was dazzling. Time to ‘get my surf on’! *See 9/25 post.

The wetsuit was much like a neoprene support brace for my knee and the cold and salty water provided a nasal wash for the old sinuses. The 52 degree ocean snapped me right out of my Nyquil stupor too. And most of all, the clean waist to shoulder high peelers rejuvenated my spirit. Ah nature’s panacea!

Get A Room You Two!

I thought love was only true in fairy tales
Meant for someone else but not for me.
Love was out to get me
That's the way it seemed.
Disappointment haunted all my dreams.

Then I saw her face, now I'm a believer
Not a trace of doubt in my mind.
I'm in love, I'm a believer!
I couldn't leave her if I tried. -The Monkees

Almost Famous

Props to Lorenzo’s Journal, which just featured yours truly in the 9/23 entry. (yeah that's me) I am so stoked! This blog is renown for defining the very pulse beat of Bolinas surfing. Further, Lorenzo’s Journal chronicles a retiree’s life style, greatly enhanced by his love of surfing. And with each entry, you’ll find a table with the day’s conditions as well as a photo du jour. These photojournalistic images not only catch the action. They create mood and composition too. So whether you want to monitor the waves, meet the cast of local surf characters or find a good surf role model; it’s all there.

Lorenzo is one of the most avid surfers I know. He’s always in the right spot, catching wave after wave. You can easily spot his relaxed stance and fluid style. His enjoyment of the sport is reflected in his blog, as is his contentment with being retired. The journal has inspired me to persevere both in the water and on the blogspot. Being mentioned like this is something I’ve aspired to and has me stoked. So check it out with this handy link...... Lorenzo’s Journal

Did I mention I'm stoked!?

Here's a little excerpt (actually my favorite part):

Matt caught the wave of the day. Paddling out I saw him stroking into a well-formed three-foot wall. I stopped to watch. Matt quickly positioned himself mid-swell with his back to the wave. He crouched down in the middle of his board and cruised through a long fast section. He then stood up and by shifting his weight he worked the board up and down the wave keeping him in the steepest part of the curl. He hummed by me as I paddled through the white water of the wave, I looked back and there was Matt crouched down shooting through an inside section.