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Someone commented that there was too much testosterone in the water today. Most of it wasn’t mine though. And to a man of 58, too much testosterone is not usually the issue. There was a small crowd of perhaps 20 surfers sharing a couple peaks. Waves were a solid chest high, steep and fast.
Though I had several awesome rides, I also made my quota of wipe outs by dropping in too steeply. There I was after such a misadventure, about to give my leash a tug and retrieve my board. I was basically caught inside as two guys bore down on me, having simultaneously dropped into a solid 5 footer. Not much room for any of us to maneuver. So….now what?! All I could come up with was to dive straight down and hope to be sufficiently submerged to avoid injury. I love my board and all; but I love my ass more! When I popped back up I saw the back of one rider still carving the same wave. Fortuitously, my Tuff Lite board was not put to the stress test; nor was my bod.
After vying for a few more lefts, I decided to solo it for a right over into the channel. Sweet ride but now I was really in the impact zone for my paddle back out. Another ride and I decided I was good. See, I’m kinda saving the testosterone for a certain someone.
“Hmmm, maybe I should have taken that generic Viagra a friend bestowed on me”, I pondered. He did say it was for recreational use. I’ve been a little tentative about trying the stuff though, what with all the warnings about 4 hour erections (Loren pointed out that’s in fact a pretty good sales pitch). Well after today’s session, I’m stiff enough!
PS. The waves were coming hard and fast! What, I couldn't resist that.
oh so now i know what you guys talk about in the lineup....
ReplyDeleteThe getting caught inside was one of the reasons i left...too many bods and boards flying around...still, a few memorable waves were worth it!!!!!!