Talk That Talk

Overheard in the parking lot while suiting up today:
"Dude, I gotta go get my surf on."

Note to self:
I can't wait to say that shit.

SloMo

“I feel like I’m standing still”, I said as the single speed Surly sped by me while climbing Canyon Trail today.

“Sometimes you gotta do that on a single speed”, replied the very fit young rider, graciously understating his youth and athleticism.

“Dude, I need all the gears I can get!”, I called out to the already disappearing figure.

Amelie Recut

Amelie is perhaps the most charming and engaging romantic comedy ever. Remember the warmth of its cinematography and the hauntingly beautiful soundtrack. Well, forget that and prepare for THE FEAR. I've seen this movie a dozen times; but never before like this.

Still Buzzed

I was the only one in the water. Where was everyone on this silver Autum morning? Was there a party and they forgot to invite me? Was it something I said? Perhaps it was that smell rising from my wet suit booties? Was there something in the water besides the red tide? My mind traveled.

After an hour Loren ambled up the beach to view the waves. Soon he and Russ paddled out to join me in trading some crisp, clean lefts. The waves, though only waist high, were steep and fast. If you made the drop quickly, they held their shape. We all got some sweet ones.

I was quite lucky to receive a gift of nature…the wave of the day! Right place, right moment, awesome ride. Now and then, life is really good. I know I’ll be humbled and back in school all too soon; but for now, I’m still buzzed!

Bad Hair Day

I woke up with such a combover. When should I give up on "creative combing"?

Testosterone

Someone commented that there was too much testosterone in the water today. Most of it wasn’t mine though. And to a man of 58, too much testosterone is not usually the issue. There was a small crowd of perhaps 20 surfers sharing a couple peaks. Waves were a solid chest high, steep and fast.

Though I had several awesome rides, I also made my quota of wipe outs by dropping in too steeply. There I was after such a misadventure, about to give my leash a tug and retrieve my board. I was basically caught inside as two guys bore down on me, having simultaneously dropped into a solid 5 footer. Not much room for any of us to maneuver. So….now what?! All I could come up with was to dive straight down and hope to be sufficiently submerged to avoid injury. I love my board and all; but I love my ass more! When I popped back up I saw the back of one rider still carving the same wave. Fortuitously, my Tuff Lite board was not put to the stress test; nor was my bod.

After vying for a few more lefts, I decided to solo it for a right over into the channel. Sweet ride but now I was really in the impact zone for my paddle back out. Another ride and I decided I was good. See, I’m kinda saving the testosterone for a certain someone.

“Hmmm, maybe I should have taken that generic Viagra a friend bestowed on me”, I pondered. He did say it was for recreational use. I’ve been a little tentative about trying the stuff though, what with all the warnings about 4 hour erections (Loren pointed out that’s in fact a pretty good sales pitch). Well after today’s session, I’m stiff enough!

PS. The waves were coming hard and fast! What, I couldn't resist that.

Shut Up And Surf!

Dorian “Doc” Paskowitz, at the height of his medical career, decides to abandon the material life he has somehow come to disdain. He, his wife and family (ultimately 9 kids!) embark on a seemingly idyllic family odyssey, living off the grid in a 24 foot camper.

This well woven documentary combines many vintage photos and film clips with incisive interviews to explore the family’s dynamics and lifestyle, leaving the viewer with a lot to ponder. Is Doc a visionary and quintessential father or a relentless control freak and child abuser?

Are the kids finally prepared for life in today’s real world? And how do they relate now to their upbringing and their parents? Will one man’s quest for Utopia work for his entire family?

Here is a surf film for anyone, surfer or not. It is a documentary that may leave you pondering your own belief system.

Gonna Fly Now

I need a training montage! Damn, I almost joined Heath Ledger last night. All that mixology of mouth meds for the root canal was not a good thing. Today I’ll begin my come back. Queue the Rocky theme.

Trying hard now
it's so hard now
trying hard now

Getting strong now
won't be long now
getting strong now

Gonna fly now
flying high now
gonna fly, fly, fly...

After Matt's Root Canal

I feel funny. Why is this happening?!

I'm A Dental Case

I’d rather have a root canal than "fill in the blank”. Well, now I’ll have my chance. At least I got to replenish my Vicadin stash. Not that I enjoy being out of it like that; but it does help to transcend the toothache. I'll have to pop one when I get the bill too. I am actually looking forward to the “procedure”, a euphemism for yanking the nerve.

Unfortunately this endodontist doesn’t administer nitrous, which always enables me to be a model patient. Instead I will take a valium to "get in the mood". And by the way, his office is located only several blocks from my house; so I can even walk there. Ironically I won’t be allowed to walk home, which would put the endo’s license at risk, he claims. He expects me to get a cab home. Sorry but I’ve already seen Taxi Driver and don’t want some crazed guy with a mowhawk showing up at my door cause he’s pissed about a miniscule fare! So stay tuned….I know I will.